Monthly Archives: May 2023

The Quays – Dublin

Dublin is a city defined by the river Liffey – Northside and Southside – and its boundaries are the quays which developed over the centuries. From the time when the Vikings arrived in their longboats (evidence of their habitation and artefacts were found at Wood Quay in the 1970s) to the development of the modern quays in the 17th century, much water has indeed passed under various bridges, and still the work continues.

The Quays from Liberty Hall

In the early 1680s the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, First Duke of Ormond, wanted to enrich the city and suggested that the river should be narrowed by building stone quays with houses and shops facing the river, thus breaking with the medieval tradition. Ormond Quay was the first such quay built and named in honour of the Lord Lieutenant, by the developer Sir Humphrey Davis. Ormond also established a royal hunting park in the Phoenix Park and built the wall that cost £31,000 in 1669.

The quays now stretch from the Sean Heuston Bridge in the west to the Tom Clarke Bridge (formerly the East Toll Link Bridge) in the east, a distance of nearly 4.3 kilometres. There are 17 bridges over the Liffey, with the oldest being Mellows Bridge (1768) and the latest is the Rosie Hackett Bridge (2014).

Some of the city’s most celebrated building are on the quays, namely, The Custom House (1781) and The Four Courts (1786-1802). There is also the old Corn Exchange (on Burgh Quay), the Convention Centre Dublin and the massive Guinness Brewery at Kingsbridge.

James Gandon’s wonderful Custom House

Only Usher’s Island and Bachelors Walk do not have the ‘Quay’ designation.

The quays, not surprisingly, often feature in art and literature. James Joyce’s famous work The Dead (from his book Dubliners) is set in a house on Usher’s Island. The Liffey Swim by Jack B Yeats shows the quays crowded with people excitedly cheering on the swimmers. This painting won a Silver Medal at the 1924 Paris Olympics, with Yeats becoming the Free State’s first Olympic medal winner.

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The Royal Canal

The Royal Canal is the second of the canals that reach the Shannon River from Dublin, and was opened in 1817 some thirteen years after the Grand Canal. Work began in 1790 and the total cost of construction was £1,421,954.

It is 90 miles long and there are 46 locks to navigate. On its way from Dublin it passes through Maynooth, Enfield, Mullingar and Ballymahon. At the Dublin end it passes by Croke Park, where the terrace close to it is called the ‘Canal End’ before it reaches Spencer Dock then the Liffey, and the Dublin Bay beyond.

Brendan Behan memorial at Whitworth Road

The canal was constructed for the dual purpose of freight movement and passenger transport to-and-from the centre of the country. It was very popular and profitable for many years before being slowly undermined by the introduction of the railway, and later by road haulage. And by the 1970s it had fallen into disuse and plans were considered to fill in sections of it and construct a road. These, thankfully, were challenged, and work by the Royal Canal Amenity Group and Waterways Ireland saw the canal fully reopened in 2010.

Broome Bridge, near Castleknock, has a special place in Irish and scientific history. For it was here, on the 16th October 1843, that mathematician William Rowan Hamilton, who lived in Dunsink Observatory, in a moment of inspiration, realised the solution for quaternions, a problem he had been working on for some time. Excited by what he had discovered, he scratched the solution on the bridge with his penknife. This moment is celebrated annually at the bridge on the 16th October, now known as Broome’s Day.

The canal has featured in a famous song from the play The Quare Fellow by Brendan Behan. It is set in Mountjoy Gaol where Behan had spent some time, and refers to the metal triangle that was beaten to waken inmates.

And the auld triangle went jingle-jangle

All along the banks of the Royal Canal

(Photo: Dennis Fisk)

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May Day

The first of the month, I walk by the bay

Weather is glorious, oh do try and stay

Gentle breeze embraces

My heart now races

Feeling lucky, on this beautiful May Day

Scotsman’s Bay, Dun Laoghaire, Dublin

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Filed under Art, Dublin, Ireland, James Joyce, poetry